What is an EICR and do I need one?
An Electrical Installation Condition Report checks a property's wiring against current safety standards and flags anything worn, damaged or non-compliant. Landlords are legally required to get one every 5 years; homeowners aren't, but it's worth having on an older property or one you've just bought where the wiring history is unknown.
Christmas lights and extension lead safety
Overloading a single socket with extension leads and adaptors, especially outdoors or over the festive period, is one of the more common causes of a winter electrical fault. Outdoor lights need outdoor-rated (IP-rated) connectors, and it's worth having sockets checked before peak season if your property's wiring is older.
Smart meters and electrical work
If you're having a consumer unit replaced or a major rewire, it's worth telling your energy supplier in advance — work on the supply side sometimes needs the meter isolated by the network operator, not just your electrician, and this can take longer to arrange than the electrical work itself.
DIY electrical work vs when you need a professional
Under Part P of the Building Regulations, certain electrical work in a home is notifiable — it has to be carried out by a registered electrician who can self-certify it, or separately inspected by your council's building control. New circuits, consumer unit replacements, and any new work in a kitchen or bathroom are notifiable. Like-for-like socket or switch swaps usually aren't.
Workmanship guarantees on electrical work
Registered electricians typically offer a workmanship guarantee separate from any manufacturer's warranty on parts like consumer units or EV chargers — usually 12 months upwards. Ask what's covered specifically: a guarantee on a rewire should cover the whole job, not just the final connection.
Understanding the labour vs materials split
Materials — consumer units, cabling, sockets, fittings — are usually a smaller share of an electrical quote than labour, particularly for jobs involving lifting floors or chasing walls. If a quote seems unusually cheap, check whether it's using a lower-spec consumer unit or cabling than a competing quote, not just a lower labour rate.
Garage and workshop power
Running power to a detached garage or workshop means an armoured cable, usually buried, and its own consumer unit or sub-board with RCD protection at the supply end. If you're planning to run power tools or an EV charger from it, size the supply for that from the start — upgrading later usually means digging the cable run up again.
Three steps to hiring the right electrician
First, confirm they're registered with NICEIC or NAPIT and ask to see their registration number. Second, get a written quote that itemises labour and materials separately, not just a total. Third, ask what certificate you'll receive when the work's done — for notifiable work, you're entitled to a Building Regulations compliance certificate.