Red flags in a cheap electrical quote
A quote significantly below the others is worth asking about before accepting — check it includes a proper consumer unit (not a budget one that doesn't meet current standards), covers making good afterwards, and includes the certificate you're entitled to for notifiable work. Cash-only, no fixed address, and no registration number are all worth asking about directly.
Wiring a loft conversion
A loft conversion typically needs new lighting and socket circuits, often a new consumer unit way if the existing one is already at capacity, and mains-wired interlinked smoke alarms are usually required by building control as part of the sign-off, not just recommended.
First fix and second fix, explained
On a rewire or new build, "first fix" is running cables through walls and floors before they're closed up; "second fix" is fitting sockets, switches and light fittings once decorating is done. Getting the timing right with other trades on site avoids cables being covered before they're tested.
When does a consumer unit need replacing?
Older fuse boxes with rewireable fuses or plastic (rather than metal) casings don't meet current wiring regulations and are a common reason a rewire quote comes in higher than expected. A modern consumer unit uses RCBOs, which cut power to a single faulty circuit rather than the whole property.
Garage and workshop power
Running power to a detached garage or workshop means an armoured cable, usually buried, and its own consumer unit or sub-board with RCD protection at the supply end. If you're planning to run power tools or an EV charger from it, size the supply for that from the start — upgrading later usually means digging the cable run up again.
Smart meters and electrical work
If you're having a consumer unit replaced or a major rewire, it's worth telling your energy supplier in advance — work on the supply side sometimes needs the meter isolated by the network operator, not just your electrician, and this can take longer to arrange than the electrical work itself.
Electrics in bathrooms — zone rules explained
UK wiring regulations split a bathroom into zones (0, 1, 2, and outside zones) based on distance from water, and each zone restricts what can be fitted and to what IP (ingress protection) rating. A standard socket can't go in zone 1, for example. This is why bathroom electrical work is notifiable under Part P — it's assessed against these zones, not just wired like any other room.
Three steps to hiring the right electrician
First, confirm they're registered with NICEIC or NAPIT and ask to see their registration number. Second, get a written quote that itemises labour and materials separately, not just a total. Third, ask what certificate you'll receive when the work's done — for notifiable work, you're entitled to a Building Regulations compliance certificate.