Three steps to hiring the right electrician
First, confirm they're registered with NICEIC or NAPIT and ask to see their registration number. Second, get a written quote that itemises labour and materials separately, not just a total. Third, ask what certificate you'll receive when the work's done — for notifiable work, you're entitled to a Building Regulations compliance certificate.
Understanding the labour vs materials split
Materials — consumer units, cabling, sockets, fittings — are usually a smaller share of an electrical quote than labour, particularly for jobs involving lifting floors or chasing walls. If a quote seems unusually cheap, check whether it's using a lower-spec consumer unit or cabling than a competing quote, not just a lower labour rate.
NICEIC & NAPIT registration explained
NICEIC and NAPIT are the two largest government-authorised Competent Person Schemes for electrical work in the UK. Joining requires a recognised qualification (City & Guilds 2382, the 18th Edition Wiring Regulations, plus a Level 3 NVQ and City & Guilds 2391 for inspection and testing), and ongoing assessment. A registered electrician can self-certify notifiable work without a separate council inspection.
Red flags in a cheap electrical quote
A quote significantly below the others is worth asking about before accepting — check it includes a proper consumer unit (not a budget one that doesn't meet current standards), covers making good afterwards, and includes the certificate you're entitled to for notifiable work. Cash-only, no fixed address, and no registration number are all worth asking about directly.
What a good electrical quote should include
A proper quote should state the scope of work, whether it's notifiable under Part P, an itemised breakdown of labour vs materials, the certificate you'll receive on completion, and how long the job is expected to take. If a quote is missing any of these, ask before agreeing to the work.
Garage and workshop power
Running power to a detached garage or workshop means an armoured cable, usually buried, and its own consumer unit or sub-board with RCD protection at the supply end. If you're planning to run power tools or an EV charger from it, size the supply for that from the start — upgrading later usually means digging the cable run up again.
Rewiring a listed or period property
Listed building consent can be needed for chasing cable runs into original plaster or masonry, even though the electrical work itself is assessed the same way as any other property under Part P. Conduit and surface-mounted cabling are sometimes used instead of chasing into walls specifically to avoid this — worth discussing with an electrician who's worked on listed properties before.
First fix and second fix, explained
On a rewire or new build, "first fix" is running cables through walls and floors before they're closed up; "second fix" is fitting sockets, switches and light fittings once decorating is done. Getting the timing right with other trades on site avoids cables being covered before they're tested.