Powering a garden office or outbuilding
Running power to a garden office or outbuilding usually means an armoured cable buried below the recommended depth, its own small consumer unit, and RCD protection at the supply end. This is notifiable work and typically needs building control sign-off alongside the electrical certification.
Understanding the labour vs materials split
Materials — consumer units, cabling, sockets, fittings — are usually a smaller share of an electrical quote than labour, particularly for jobs involving lifting floors or chasing walls. If a quote seems unusually cheap, check whether it's using a lower-spec consumer unit or cabling than a competing quote, not just a lower labour rate.
Background checks and identity verification
Before comparing quotes, it's worth checking an electrician's identity and trading history, not just their qualifications — a registration number, a landline or verifiable business address, and reviews that reference specific jobs are all better signals than a mobile number alone.
How many quotes should you get?
Three is the usual recommendation — enough to spot an outlier (too cheap or too expensive) without asking so many tradespeople to survey your property that it wastes everyone's time. Make sure each quote is for the same scope of work, since a lower price sometimes just means less is included.
How often should wiring be tested?
The IET recommends an electrical inspection every 10 years for an owner-occupied home, 5 years for a rented property, and on change of occupancy for some property types. A periodic inspection is different from routine maintenance — it's a formal check against current wiring regulations, not just a visual look.
What affects the cost
Cost depends on the scope of the job, how much of the property needs to be accessed, the age and condition of the existing wiring, and whether the consumer unit needs upgrading. A single socket replacement is quick and low-cost; a full rewire in an older property takes longer, partly because of the making-good work afterwards.
Garage and workshop power
Running power to a detached garage or workshop means an armoured cable, usually buried, and its own consumer unit or sub-board with RCD protection at the supply end. If you're planning to run power tools or an EV charger from it, size the supply for that from the start — upgrading later usually means digging the cable run up again.
Smart meters and electrical work
If you're having a consumer unit replaced or a major rewire, it's worth telling your energy supplier in advance — work on the supply side sometimes needs the meter isolated by the network operator, not just your electrician, and this can take longer to arrange than the electrical work itself.