DIY electrical work vs when you need a professional
Under Part P of the Building Regulations, certain electrical work in a home is notifiable — it has to be carried out by a registered electrician who can self-certify it, or separately inspected by your council's building control. New circuits, consumer unit replacements, and any new work in a kitchen or bathroom are notifiable. Like-for-like socket or switch swaps usually aren't.
Rewiring a listed or period property
Listed building consent can be needed for chasing cable runs into original plaster or masonry, even though the electrical work itself is assessed the same way as any other property under Part P. Conduit and surface-mounted cabling are sometimes used instead of chasing into walls specifically to avoid this — worth discussing with an electrician who's worked on listed properties before.
Red flags in a cheap electrical quote
A quote significantly below the others is worth asking about before accepting — check it includes a proper consumer unit (not a budget one that doesn't meet current standards), covers making good afterwards, and includes the certificate you're entitled to for notifiable work. Cash-only, no fixed address, and no registration number are all worth asking about directly.
Understanding the labour vs materials split
Materials — consumer units, cabling, sockets, fittings — are usually a smaller share of an electrical quote than labour, particularly for jobs involving lifting floors or chasing walls. If a quote seems unusually cheap, check whether it's using a lower-spec consumer unit or cabling than a competing quote, not just a lower labour rate.
Wiring a loft conversion
A loft conversion typically needs new lighting and socket circuits, often a new consumer unit way if the existing one is already at capacity, and mains-wired interlinked smoke alarms are usually required by building control as part of the sign-off, not just recommended.
Electrics in kitchens — circuits for appliances
A kitchen refit usually means new dedicated circuits for higher-draw appliances (oven, hob, dishwasher) rather than sharing a single ring main, plus RCD protection for anywhere near a sink. If you're changing the kitchen layout, plan socket and circuit positions before the units go in — moving them afterwards means lifting worktops or units again.
What is an EICR and do I need one?
An Electrical Installation Condition Report checks a property's wiring against current safety standards and flags anything worn, damaged or non-compliant. Landlords are legally required to get one every 5 years; homeowners aren't, but it's worth having on an older property or one you've just bought where the wiring history is unknown.
Electrical emergencies — what to do
If you smell burning, see sparks, or a breaker keeps tripping and won't reset, turn off the affected circuit and call an electrician. Don't reset a tripped breaker more than once if it trips again immediately — that usually means a fault, not a one-off.