Aftercare after plumbing work
After a boiler installation or bathroom refit, you should receive a benchmark/commissioning checklist (for a boiler) or a written summary of the work done, which you'll want if you make an insurance claim or sell the property later. Keep it with your household paperwork alongside any appliance warranties.
Seasonal plumbing checks worth doing
Before winter: check outside tap isolation valves, and consider draining down any external pipework not in regular use. Before summer: check garden irrigation and outside tap connections for wear, since these see much more use once the weather turns. A five-minute check avoids most seasonal callouts.
Plumbing in a washing machine or dishwasher
Both need a cold water supply, a drain connection, and in most cases their own isolation valves so they can be disconnected without turning off water to the whole property. Using a shared valve with another appliance is a common shortcut that makes future repairs more disruptive than it needs to be.
Combi vs system vs conventional boilers
A combi boiler heats water on demand with no separate tank, suits smaller properties with one bathroom. A system boiler uses a hot water cylinder but no cold water tank, better for higher demand. A conventional (regular) boiler uses both a cylinder and a tank, common in older properties and useful where mains pressure is poor.
Understanding the labour vs materials split
Materials — pipework, fittings, a new boiler or bathroom suite — are often a smaller share of a plumbing quote than labour, particularly for jobs involving lifting floors or chasing walls. If a quote looks unusually cheap, check whether it specifies the same brand/quality of fittings as a competing quote, not just a lower labour rate.
Plumbing emergencies — what to do first
For a burst pipe or major leak, turn off the water at the stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink or where the supply enters the property) before calling anyone — this limits water damage while you wait. For no hot water or heating, check the boiler pressure gauge first; a common cause is low pressure, which some homeowners can safely top up themselves via the filling loop.
What a boiler fault code usually means
Modern combi boilers display a fault code when something's wrong rather than just stopping — the exact meaning varies by manufacturer, but common causes behind a "no heat" code include low pressure, a faulty sensor, or an ignition fault. Note the code before calling a plumber; it speeds up diagnosis considerably.
Low water pressure — common causes
Low pressure can come from a partially closed stopcock, a fault with the water company's supply, scale build-up in old pipework, or (for a shower specifically) the type of shower valve fitted. A plumber can usually diagnose which of these it is by checking pressure at more than one fixture, rather than assuming it's the mains supply.