Electrical emergencies — what to do
If you smell burning, see sparks, or a breaker keeps tripping and won't reset, turn off the affected circuit and call an electrician. Don't reset a tripped breaker more than once if it trips again immediately — that usually means a fault, not a one-off.
Rewiring a listed or period property
Listed building consent can be needed for chasing cable runs into original plaster or masonry, even though the electrical work itself is assessed the same way as any other property under Part P. Conduit and surface-mounted cabling are sometimes used instead of chasing into walls specifically to avoid this — worth discussing with an electrician who's worked on listed properties before.
Garage and workshop power
Running power to a detached garage or workshop means an armoured cable, usually buried, and its own consumer unit or sub-board with RCD protection at the supply end. If you're planning to run power tools or an EV charger from it, size the supply for that from the start — upgrading later usually means digging the cable run up again.
Electrics in kitchens — circuits for appliances
A kitchen refit usually means new dedicated circuits for higher-draw appliances (oven, hob, dishwasher) rather than sharing a single ring main, plus RCD protection for anywhere near a sink. If you're changing the kitchen layout, plan socket and circuit positions before the units go in — moving them afterwards means lifting worktops or units again.
LED lighting and energy-saving rewires
Swapping halogen downlights for LEDs is usually straightforward, but older dimmer switches often aren't compatible with LED drivers and need replacing alongside the bulbs, or you'll get flickering or a limited dimming range. If you're rewiring a room anyway, it's worth speccing LED-compatible circuits from the start rather than fixing dimmer compatibility later.
Smart meters and electrical work
If you're having a consumer unit replaced or a major rewire, it's worth telling your energy supplier in advance — work on the supply side sometimes needs the meter isolated by the network operator, not just your electrician, and this can take longer to arrange than the electrical work itself.
Electrics in bathrooms — zone rules explained
UK wiring regulations split a bathroom into zones (0, 1, 2, and outside zones) based on distance from water, and each zone restricts what can be fitted and to what IP (ingress protection) rating. A standard socket can't go in zone 1, for example. This is why bathroom electrical work is notifiable under Part P — it's assessed against these zones, not just wired like any other room.
Outdoor and garden electrics
Outdoor sockets, garden lighting, and supplies to sheds or outbuildings need weatherproof (IP-rated) fittings and their own RCD protection — standard indoor sockets and cabling aren't rated for outdoor use. This is notifiable work under Part P if it involves a new circuit.