What affects the cost
Cost depends on the scope of the job, how accessible the pipework is (under a floor vs behind a wall), whether parts need to be sourced specially, and whether the job is planned or an emergency call-out. A simple tap or valve replacement is usually quick and low-cost; anything requiring pipework to be rerouted, or walls/floors to be opened up, costs more partly because of the making-good work afterwards.
Plumbing emergencies — what to do first
For a burst pipe or major leak, turn off the water at the stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink or where the supply enters the property) before calling anyone — this limits water damage while you wait. For no hot water or heating, check the boiler pressure gauge first; a common cause is low pressure, which some homeowners can safely top up themselves via the filling loop.
Low water pressure — common causes
Low pressure can come from a partially closed stopcock, a fault with the water company's supply, scale build-up in old pipework, or (for a shower specifically) the type of shower valve fitted. A plumber can usually diagnose which of these it is by checking pressure at more than one fixture, rather than assuming it's the mains supply.
Plumbing regulations, FAQ
Do I need a certificate for a new bathroom? There's no single certificate like Part P for electrics, but any work must comply with Water Fittings Regulations, and gas-connected work needs a Gas Safe engineer. Can I do my own plumbing? Straightforward repairs, yes; anything affecting the public water supply (like a new connection) should go through a WaterSafe-approved plumber.
How many quotes should you get?
Three is a reasonable number for most plumbing jobs — enough to spot an outlier without asking too many people to visit for a straightforward repair. For a planned job like a bathroom refit, make sure each quote covers the same scope, since a lower price sometimes means less is included, not better value.
What's involved in a bathroom refit
A full bathroom refit usually means removing the old suite, checking and often replacing the pipework behind it (since it's rarely accessible again once tiled over), first-fix plumbing before tiling, then second-fix (taps, shower, toilet cistern) once the room is finished. Waterproofing (tanking) around a shower area is a step worth confirming is included, not assumed.
Hard water and your plumbing
In hard water areas, limescale builds up inside pipes, taps, showerheads and boiler heat exchangers over time, gradually reducing efficiency and flow. A plumber working in a hard water area may recommend a water softener or scale inhibitor as part of a boiler installation, particularly for a system that's expected to last 10+ years.
Protecting pipes in cold weather
Pipes in unheated spaces — lofts, garages, outbuildings — are the most common source of a winter burst pipe once temperatures drop below freezing for a sustained period. Lagging exposed pipework and keeping heating on a low constant setting during a cold snap, rather than off, are the two most effective preventive steps.