New build and extension electrical work
Wiring an extension or new build from scratch is different from rewiring an existing room — it's planned around final wall positions and fittings before plastering, so timing with your builder matters. First-fix electrical work (cabling inside walls) has to happen before plastering; second-fix (sockets, switches, fittings) after.
What affects the cost
Cost depends on the scope of the job, how much of the property needs to be accessed, the age and condition of the existing wiring, and whether the consumer unit needs upgrading. A single socket replacement is quick and low-cost; a full rewire in an older property takes longer, partly because of the making-good work afterwards.
Lighting design and circuit planning
Adding recessed downlights, under-cabinet lighting or dimmer circuits usually means new cabling even if you're keeping the existing consumer unit, since older lighting circuits weren't sized for LED transformers or multiple dimmer switches. Plan lighting changes before, not after, a room's redecorated.
Shared supplies in flats and converted buildings
In a converted property, it's worth checking whether your flat has its own independent consumer unit and meter, or shares a supply with other flats via a landlord's distribution board. Shared supplies can complicate straightforward jobs and sometimes need freeholder permission before any work starts — check this before booking rather than on the day.
NICEIC & NAPIT registration explained
NICEIC and NAPIT are the two largest government-authorised Competent Person Schemes for electrical work in the UK. Joining requires a recognised qualification (City & Guilds 2382, the 18th Edition Wiring Regulations, plus a Level 3 NVQ and City & Guilds 2391 for inspection and testing), and ongoing assessment. A registered electrician can self-certify notifiable work without a separate council inspection.
Understanding the labour vs materials split
Materials — consumer units, cabling, sockets, fittings — are usually a smaller share of an electrical quote than labour, particularly for jobs involving lifting floors or chasing walls. If a quote seems unusually cheap, check whether it's using a lower-spec consumer unit or cabling than a competing quote, not just a lower labour rate.
Garage and workshop power
Running power to a detached garage or workshop means an armoured cable, usually buried, and its own consumer unit or sub-board with RCD protection at the supply end. If you're planning to run power tools or an EV charger from it, size the supply for that from the start — upgrading later usually means digging the cable run up again.
Red flags in a cheap electrical quote
A quote significantly below the others is worth asking about before accepting — check it includes a proper consumer unit (not a budget one that doesn't meet current standards), covers making good afterwards, and includes the certificate you're entitled to for notifiable work. Cash-only, no fixed address, and no registration number are all worth asking about directly.