Christmas lights and extension lead safety
Overloading a single socket with extension leads and adaptors, especially outdoors or over the festive period, is one of the more common causes of a winter electrical fault. Outdoor lights need outdoor-rated (IP-rated) connectors, and it's worth having sockets checked before peak season if your property's wiring is older.
How long does electrical work take?
A socket or switch swap is usually under an hour. A consumer unit replacement is typically a full day, often with the power off for several hours. A full rewire in an occupied property commonly takes 5 to 10 days depending on size and access, plus time afterwards for plastering and redecorating that isn't part of the electrical work itself.
What is an EICR and do I need one?
An Electrical Installation Condition Report checks a property's wiring against current safety standards and flags anything worn, damaged or non-compliant. Landlords are legally required to get one every 5 years; homeowners aren't, but it's worth having on an older property or one you've just bought where the wiring history is unknown.
DIY electrical work vs when you need a professional
Under Part P of the Building Regulations, certain electrical work in a home is notifiable — it has to be carried out by a registered electrician who can self-certify it, or separately inspected by your council's building control. New circuits, consumer unit replacements, and any new work in a kitchen or bathroom are notifiable. Like-for-like socket or switch swaps usually aren't.
Understanding the labour vs materials split
Materials — consumer units, cabling, sockets, fittings — are usually a smaller share of an electrical quote than labour, particularly for jobs involving lifting floors or chasing walls. If a quote seems unusually cheap, check whether it's using a lower-spec consumer unit or cabling than a competing quote, not just a lower labour rate.
Rewiring a listed or period property
Listed building consent can be needed for chasing cable runs into original plaster or masonry, even though the electrical work itself is assessed the same way as any other property under Part P. Conduit and surface-mounted cabling are sometimes used instead of chasing into walls specifically to avoid this — worth discussing with an electrician who's worked on listed properties before.
New build and extension electrical work
Wiring an extension or new build from scratch is different from rewiring an existing room — it's planned around final wall positions and fittings before plastering, so timing with your builder matters. First-fix electrical work (cabling inside walls) has to happen before plastering; second-fix (sockets, switches, fittings) after.
Garage and workshop power
Running power to a detached garage or workshop means an armoured cable, usually buried, and its own consumer unit or sub-board with RCD protection at the supply end. If you're planning to run power tools or an EV charger from it, size the supply for that from the start — upgrading later usually means digging the cable run up again.