How many quotes should you get?
Three is the usual recommendation — enough to spot an outlier (too cheap or too expensive) without asking so many tradespeople to survey your property that it wastes everyone's time. Make sure each quote is for the same scope of work, since a lower price sometimes just means less is included.
Lighting design and circuit planning
Adding recessed downlights, under-cabinet lighting or dimmer circuits usually means new cabling even if you're keeping the existing consumer unit, since older lighting circuits weren't sized for LED transformers or multiple dimmer switches. Plan lighting changes before, not after, a room's redecorated.
Red flags in a cheap electrical quote
A quote significantly below the others is worth asking about before accepting — check it includes a proper consumer unit (not a budget one that doesn't meet current standards), covers making good afterwards, and includes the certificate you're entitled to for notifiable work. Cash-only, no fixed address, and no registration number are all worth asking about directly.
Rewiring a listed or period property
Listed building consent can be needed for chasing cable runs into original plaster or masonry, even though the electrical work itself is assessed the same way as any other property under Part P. Conduit and surface-mounted cabling are sometimes used instead of chasing into walls specifically to avoid this — worth discussing with an electrician who's worked on listed properties before.
Electrics in bathrooms — zone rules explained
UK wiring regulations split a bathroom into zones (0, 1, 2, and outside zones) based on distance from water, and each zone restricts what can be fitted and to what IP (ingress protection) rating. A standard socket can't go in zone 1, for example. This is why bathroom electrical work is notifiable under Part P — it's assessed against these zones, not just wired like any other room.
Electrics in kitchens — circuits for appliances
A kitchen refit usually means new dedicated circuits for higher-draw appliances (oven, hob, dishwasher) rather than sharing a single ring main, plus RCD protection for anywhere near a sink. If you're changing the kitchen layout, plan socket and circuit positions before the units go in — moving them afterwards means lifting worktops or units again.
LED lighting and energy-saving rewires
Swapping halogen downlights for LEDs is usually straightforward, but older dimmer switches often aren't compatible with LED drivers and need replacing alongside the bulbs, or you'll get flickering or a limited dimming range. If you're rewiring a room anyway, it's worth speccing LED-compatible circuits from the start rather than fixing dimmer compatibility later.
Outdoor and garden electrics
Outdoor sockets, garden lighting, and supplies to sheds or outbuildings need weatherproof (IP-rated) fittings and their own RCD protection — standard indoor sockets and cabling aren't rated for outdoor use. This is notifiable work under Part P if it involves a new circuit.